Max's Blog


May 20
Max's Blog
Monday, 31 May 2010 18:57

There is a family emergency in Thailand and Pook and I have to go to Bangkok for a week. We will leave in the morning and come back on Tuesday, June 1st.  I will talk to you when I get back.

 

Your Chef,

 

Max

 
May 19
Max's Blog
Monday, 31 May 2010 18:48

I can't believe that it took me two full days of light work to get back to normal again. It was fun for a solid 80 hour work week in the kitchen.

 

The whole staff front and back are all pretty much burnt out. They are all taking turns to get a day or two off to get back into shape. We still have parties all over the place to take care of for a good week.

 

I had a good talk with my partner Palmer Foods. We are trying to get them to dry age some Prime CAB for us. We are also looking for a Kobe Rib Eye lip. DDT (Dave DownTown) my Bistro Chef, and I are still debating on whether we should carry one more cut or just stick with what we have now. We want to update the Bistro menu but will we be able to maintain our prices if the quality keeps going up? This coming Tuesday DDT and I will meet with Palmer's meat specialist and discuss the alternatives and possibility of alteration.

 

Your Chef,

 

Max

 
May 11
Max's Blog
Tuesday, 11 May 2010 19:44

Graduation day is right around the corner and we are trying so hard to fill our chairs to capacity. If everything goes according to schedule we should served about one thousand customers this weekend. The kitchen and front have been staffed, kitchen orders have been placed and now we are just tying up a few loose ends with the menu.

 

Here are just a few of our specials for the weekend:

Fresh Canadian diver scallops from North Coast, huge U-5 shrimp, Chilean Sea Bass and Belon Oysters from JP. I am also trying to get the "whale" soft shell crab instead of the "prime." The "prime" looks like crickets they are so small. Of course we will also have Russian King Crab and Kobe, Dry Aged and Prime Beef.

 

Steve our sales rep from our "partner" Palmer Foods gave us more time on our account. He has been good to us but I always make him work for his order. We are not the type of restaurant that will just order 300lbs of haddock every week. He must watch the quality, price and have good timing to earn a good order. He does a good job that is why he has been with us for years.

 

Our relationship with Palmer Foods is getting a lot better. They seem to understand the need of a fine dinning establishment. Their seafood program has greatly improved and we are very happy with their company right now. Thanks to everyone from Steve all the way to Mr. Palmer himself!

 

I will spend the rest of the week preparing for Graduation Weekend. I will talk to you all next week.

 

Your Chef,

 

Max

 
May 7
Max's Blog
Friday, 07 May 2010 18:12

After 13 hard weeks at the Grass it seems like everything is slowing down a little. This is good for everybody. At the very least we get to relax for a day or two but we all know that this is the calm before the big storm!

 

Today I even had enough time to fix some issues with my eggplant appetizer. We are using Japanese purple eggplant. It is available year round but we are having a hard time keeping it in stock because it bruises so easily and has a short self life. I just got a new baby eggplant in from California. They are so very nice, young, tender and most of all they are so yummy.

 

We sliced them real thin and made a quick grill with sea salt and olive oil. Then we rolled them up and served them over our double roasted pepper sauce and more olive oil.

 

 

 

 

Our lunch menu is getting old and out dated so it is time to polish it up a bit. I had enough time to work with Scott on a new shrimp entree. Now a days, since we have a lot of Japanese influence around the Square, why don't we just follow the trend and make them look more attractive and taste better.

 

First of all I am thinking about tempura shrimp. How can I make them light, fresh and fast on every order with out pulling them out of a box from the freezer and popping them into the grease fryer? It took me half the day but I think I got it. Now I just have to work on the presentation I have already a couple preliminary drafts down.

 

I will pile the shrimp high over a bed of sushi rice serve it with Japanese pickles or greens. The price will be in the $11.50 range.  Remember this is just one of my ideas. You will not see it on the menu until I am completely satisfied.

 

This lunch menu is going to be the best! Just give me a week or so.

 

Your Chef,

 

Max

 

BTW Kevin my web kid is working on fixing the photo problem so we can have a better time together.

 
May 4
Max's Blog
Thursday, 06 May 2010 11:06

Last week was really hard for me. We had parties everyday from Monday all the way to "My Best Friend's Daughter's Wedding" on Saturday. 50 - 55 hours is normal for a full time chef.

 

From the second week of January, most of our new staff (2 - 15 months) stared to leave, some of them left us to different places that needed the Grass's staff to bring their restaurant to the "next level".. yes, this was their actual words that they told me.

 

Good for them! Every cook wants to be a chef, every young chef wants to have their own restaurant. They want to show the world this is what they have, some of them very good, but 98% of them are not ready.

 

Of course I'm training a new batch of staff again. They are more willing to listen and learn than the ones I had before. They make mistakes like everybody does but they are making a lot less of them!

 

We are using them for fabrication on the line service. Now all we need from them is speed and precision. They will be good in less than two weeks.

 

Since we are talking about the kitchen today, may I clarify what I mean about my Number 1 guy in the kitchen...

 

Number 1 in the Grass's kitchen is the guy that takes the position as the saute man. He can read and manage the tickets wisely, most likely running the Grass's entree line which is the most expensive line but not the hardest line to run. You must be a good line cook to be successful. You will work along with one other cook, two on a busy night.

 

Some restaurants may call him the line chef which is okay by me, but I'd like to make it clear this position is not the Grass's Chef.

 

Chef is not just a title. A chef has to know how to manage his kitchen - labor, food cost, marketing (which comes with hundreds of things to learn), and it requires their whole heart and soul.

 

Your Chef,

 

Max

 
April 26
Max's Blog
Monday, 26 April 2010 21:07

Last week I made several adjustments to my kitchen because of the problems we had the previous Saturday. Thursday night was a good test for the line with Anthony Bourdain's show at the Landmark. By 6:30 the whole restaurant was full. And as to be expected, most of the guests followed his theme of "No Reservations" ha ha!

 

If we compare the kitchen Thursday night to Tom Hank's new series "The Pacific" it would go something like this...

 

There was bloodshed all over the kitchen. All the lines were trying their best to fend off enemies from overrunning their base. Orders were flying all over the place as they poured in like rain. Several times they ran low on supplies but they made a good recovery with the backup they had at their base.

 

A lot of scallops, fish, Kobe beef, Dry Aged and Rib Eye steaks, chicken and an uncountable number of shrimp sacrificed their lives for this battle. We will remember all those we lost.

 

Even though we won the battle, there are still more to come. I will let you know if we nail this war down.

 

Your Commander and Chef,

 

Max

 

PS. Soft Shell Crab is on its way! it should be here on Wednesday.

 
April 20
Max's Blog
Tuesday, 20 April 2010 17:18

The past week was so hectic for me. My kitchen hasn't gotten hit this hard since the Billy Joel concert many years ago. I apologize to any of our guests that had to wait for their food on Saturday night. Its a rare occasion that my kitchen can not keep up with the floor.

 

The menu will change this week.

Mostly we will focus on salads. We have been working to redesign and change the look and taste to be more spring like.

Here is one of them:

 

My new Goat Cheese Salad with French Vinaigrette:

The salad itself has frisee, baby arugula, roasted red peppers, Belgium endive red and white. It is garnished with marinated goat cheese (just some salt, pepper and some vinaigrette), spicy micro greens to create extra acid and balsamic reduction to complete the triangle on your palate... salty, sweet and sour.

 

The French Vinaigrette is a basic dressing.

White vinegar, light oil, salt, pepper, garlic, shallots and mustard.

 

 

 

A friend of mine asked me about Kobe beef on Sunday and we got talking about the different ways it can be prepared. He asked me what I thought about cooking Kobe on a piece of flat rock at a constant heat of 350 degrees. This is not a simple question. It depends on how thick the Kobe is, how many pieces on the rock and very importantly how big is the rock. This is what I think but this is just me...

 

I love Kobe beef. I've been eating it for over 45 years and have learned how to cook it to perfection. I think that all chefs know that extreme heat on a thin slice of Kobe will be good for the flavor of the high fat content piece of beef.

 

If the surface of the beef did not char enough, the correct fragrance and flavor will not appear.

350 degrees on the rock... is the heat good enough to contribute enough flavor for this expensive piece of meat?

Will there be enough heat to cook the meat enough to get the right amount of melted fat for the first appearance on your nose??

Will you get that thin coat of fat on your tongue???

Then will you feel the passion in your mouth as it melts with a fighty surrender????

 

If people like to apply the Japanese technique of using a hot stone and cook Kobe beef, they should understand to slice the beef thin enough to cover the basic cooking ground. To successfully apply Eastern cooking techniques to Western food is a real charm, but did you bring the best out in your materials from your charming technique?

Now a days marketing comes first before flavor?

I don't think so!

 

That is what I told my friends.

 

Your Chef,

 

Max

 

 

 

 
April 16
Max's Blog
Friday, 16 April 2010 09:40

Sorry that we missed Tuesday's Blog. We've been swamped with all kinds of work. Ali has been so busy with reservations for Graduation Weekend. We have sold out of all the early dinner times on Saturday now we are only left with late lunch and late dinner. Ali even asked me to stay open all day on Saturday so we can take reservations from lunch straight through dinner. Friday at Sunday still look good but are going furiously fast! I wish her well and hope that she will still be in one piece after graduation is over.

 

Lets talk about the new fish company. I raised the question to North Coast last week in Boston about if we are too small for them to take care of us? Actually they said no. We started to get shipments from them this week. No question they are one of the highest quality fish companies since Brown Trading. Their quality is great but their product list doesn't make my blood move. No ooooohs or ahhhhs so far. We will see in about 2 weeks.

 

This week we got in ordinary good fish like Alaskan Salmon, fresh calamari, superb U10 scallops, really good looking and HUGE PEI Mussels, and oysters which were passed through a purified tank. No soft shell crab yet even though the guys in NYC had them 2 weeks ago. I tried to get lobster roe in frozen tube, they didn't know where to get them ha!! I used to get them from Cousins Fish Company in Albany before they sadly closed.

 

Of course like old Asians say "You never know how good your horse is until you run them for a while." So far we still love these guys even if their product list is boring.

 

Your Chef,

 

Max

 
April 8th
Max's Blog
Thursday, 08 April 2010 16:18

On Tuesday Palmer Foods flew me and several other area chefs to Boston to visit a new seafood company they are purchasing from. I was soooo impressed with their operation!

 

They are fully committed to the highest quality of product, their facility was spotless and their cutting edge technology was amazing. So far I like this company a lot. Their price might be a little higher than others but if they can deliver the quality they promised I will pay for it. My one and only question... Are we too small for them to take care of us?

 

If this all works out it will be great... the clouds are starting to part on our seafood battle. No more scallop war, not more shipping problems just great high quality stuff! We will see when they ship us some stuff next week.

 

Your Chef,

 

Max

 

 

 
April 5
Max's Blog
Monday, 05 April 2010 20:50

March came in like a lion and left like a Colorado lamb... very delicious ha ha. This has been the best March and the best quarter in the history of man kind! And Governor Paterson's sales tax office can be my witness.

 

I've been working so hard to get seasonal produce in and as a side effect we have been running a lot of specials. I think at one point we were up to about 20! My wait staff told me that the customers start to laugh at them after 8 so we cut it down to 10 specials for now.

 

It looks like the giant diver scallops are done. We keep trying though. I will go back to Jon in Boston again I wish he can get me U8. There are two boats that might have them. We are also keeping an eye on the Alaskan King Crab market. The price is about to soar. The quality is still fantastic but the portion is smaller. We usually get about 14 straight legs which is the "filet mignon" of crab, now they cut down to about 11 straight legs and that's all we can get for entrees. This needs to be fixed or we won't be able to have them on the menu anymore.

 

Tomorrow I will fly to Boston along with my brother Lex and a few other chefs from the area. We will check out a new seafood company to see what they have to offer. They will show us their facility, capability and efficiency... lets see how good they are!

 

Your Chef,

 

Max

 
April 2
Max's Blog
Friday, 02 April 2010 13:44

Spring has sprung and we have all the goodies to prove it... Fiddle head ferns, baby wild leeks, colossal asparagus, wild mushrooms and fresh baby corn still in the husk. It has been the best spring ever! Today is Good Friday so the restaurant is loaded up with all kinds of seafood. Pook is going to kill me when she sees the bill!

 

Yesterday I got in 10 whole Black Grouper about 2 to 3lbs. each. We are serving them the same way we did the Black Bass last week. The Pacific Halibut is still going strong. A new batch will be shipped in today. My new old guy Ken got it from the North Coast and its quality has been fantastic. Every time we get more in I am thrilled with it.

 

Jonathan, my guy from Boston sent us Blue Fin Tuna yesterday. It came from a 545lb fish. Last night we sold a lot of sashimi and Blue Fin steaks. We also have fresh squid that we will grill and serve with our double roasted peppers sauce for my good friend Nick. The squid appetizer special has been selling very well with our famous Prig Pow sauce.

 

As for the Oysters... Today we are getting in Melpaque and Wellfleet both from Maine. They are big and very good.

 

Now I am just waiting for soft shell crab. My best friend George keeps asking me about them. I always give him the first ones of the season but its still a little early.

 

Your Chef,

 

Max

 
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